6/10/24 Villa Borghese, Pincio terrace, Farewell Dinner, and Early Departure

Who knew the Villa Borghese was a garden paradise just minutes from our hotel? A respite from honking horns and human and vehicle traffic, even including designated city bus parking.

This verdant oasis is open 24/7 with no admission fee. 

Small lakes connected to one another. Kayak and canoe rentals were available. Cars, except emergency vehicles, were not allowed on the streets. A slightly smaller Globe Theatre provided a venue for Shakespearean plays, and busts of famous Romans dotted the grounds.

Villa Borghese Gardens entrance.  

          This 19th-century water clock, nearly hidden in the greenery, uses a system of basins and siphons to accurately tell time.  

What appeared to be a missing left leg led me to this statue of Enrico Toti, an Italian cyclist, patriot, and hero of World War I who lost his left leg at age 24 while working for Italian railways.

Amazingly, he became a cyclist with his remaining leg, cycling to Paris, Belgium, the Netherlands, Denmark, Finland, and Lapland in 1911.

When the war between Italy and Austria started, he used his bicycle as a civilian and joined the 3rd Berdaglieri Bicycle Battalion before he was killed in the Sixth Battle. (During his last clash, his only weapon was a crutch whose top part can be seen clutched in his right hand.)

Views from the Terrace of Pincio...

Views from the Pincio Terrace.

Farewell Dinner...

I was so proud of myself for requesting just a half portion of my favorite pasta (classic carbonara), which, according to Julia, was best eaten only in Rome. But no one warned me that it would be preceded by eight small plate appetizers or that I would be given the evil eye for refusing dessert. How do these people stay slim?

Arrivederci Jacopo...or, maybe not.

Unbeknownst to me, the power to my hotel room went out during the wee hours when I was due to leave for the airport. Thankfully, I had already showered, was almost entirely packed, and was near panic when I couldn't locate my flashlight in the dark. I fumbled for the hotel telephone and was able to call the front desk. But of course, the only one there was the newest hire and was losing it more quickly than me. 

I didn't have Jack's number, but he let Jack know what happened once I described him to the worker. Eventually, both of them came up to my room. I was afraid to leave the room if I couldn't get back in with the power gone. It didn't take long to agree that this was a problem and that I had to get to the airport before the early rush hour.

Jack hailed the cab he had reserved for me, and I was soon on my way. 

Grazie mille, Jacopo. 

Sei il migliore!

 

6/9/24 Antica Spezieria of Santa Maria della Scala (the oldest pharmacy in Europe), Pantheon, Navona Square, and Campo de Fiori 

Today's marathon through the city disrupted all traffic and our plans, so we took a taxi as close as possible to another area for more sightseeing. Walking without concerns about being flattened by so many vehicles was so relaxing.

Castel Sant'Angelo and Bridge Vittorio Emanuele II.

The marathon ended near the bridge, and people came out of the woodwork again to claim the sidewalks.

Jack's Plan B included visiting the Trastevere district's

Antica Spezieria of Santa Maria della Scala 

(the oldest pharmacy in Europe), and the Church

of Santa Maria Della Scala.

Three stunning paintings by Caravaggio are in the chapel at the end of the left nave of the French Church of San Luigi dei Francesi.

Thanks to Jack and his 6-foot+ size for towering over the crowd and taking these photos for me.

The Inspiration of Saint Matthew.

The Calling of Saint Matthew.

The Martyrdom of Saint Matthew.

After lunch, we visited the Pantheon, Fontana de Fiumi, Navona Square, Campo de Fiori, and the Garden of the Villa Borghese.

The Pantheon.

Fontana dei fiumi.

After a quick walk in the city center of Navona Square and Campo de Fiori, fighting a strong wind billowing paper products and a motorized vehicle that had no chance of scooping up the same, we enjoyed a gelato, aperitifs and beers before returning to our hotel to pack.

 

 6/8/24 The Roman Forum and Colosseum

 

As you may expect for such a beautiful, heavily-visited city, timing is everything regarding the main attractions. Jack had incredible instincts when scheduling and hailing taxis when they arrived at our hotel. He also selected Antonia, an excellent local guide, for our walking tour of the Roman Forum and Colosseum. Between the two, I gained some insight into skipping the lines for bathrooms, ascending on an elevator to the top level of the Colosseum, and departing quickly.

The Constantine Arch entrance, 

where we met Antonia just before starting the tour.

The Titus Arch.

The main entrance to the Roman Forum.

The Roman Forum.

The Roman Forum.

The Roman Forum.

The Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, constructed in 141 AD,

was a Roman Temple later converted

 into the St. Lawrence Catholic Church.

 "Ara di Cesare," The Altar of Caesar, 

in front of the Temple of the Divine Julius in the Roman Forum, 

is where Julius Caesar's remains were cremated. 

The main reason for my return to Rome was to revisit the Flavian Amphitheatre, AKA the Colosseum, inside and out, and Antonia did just that. Flavian emperors built this as a gift to the Roman people sometime between AD 70 and 72. When it first opened, the Colosseum could hold 50,000 spectators.  

Emperor Titus celebrated with 100 days of gladiatorial games, hand-to-hand combats between gladiators, contests between men and animals, mock naval engagements, dramas, reenactments, and even public executions. 

The Colosseum had an advanced drainage system, underground tunnels, and chambers (hypogeum) that housed gladiators, animals, and machinery for special effects. It even had a retractable awning, called the velarium, that covered the entire seating area!

After 500 years, the amphitheater declined due to three massive fires and four earthquakes, vandalism, and pollution.

Lunch was pizza at Pasqualino al Colosseo. Jack insisted I order my own large pizza with everything (Capricciosa). Amazingly, I finished the entire pizza as he predicted I could since it had a very thin crust. It was divine! And, he extended his streak of choosing delicious restaurants.

 6/7/24 The Rome Post-trip: Exploring Rome's Catacombs, Hiking the Appian Way, The Trevi Fountain, and the Spanish Steps 

After breakfast, I said arrivederci to my fellow travelers returning to the USA before I continued the post-trip to Rome with another Trip Experience Leader, Jacopo (Jack) Fanfera.

The River Palace Hotel was centrally located in the heart of the city, steps from Piazza del Popolo, Villa Borghese Gardens, Spanish Steps, and other key places. A multi-room breakfast was sumptuous with anything one could imagine, with one long table dedicated solely to pastries and another for coffees, teas, juices, and even Prosecco in a tub of ice. 

I immediately liked Jacopo when he brought some delicious cookies to our first meeting and confessed that his fiancé should be credited for organizing our adventure's detailed layout. He was born and raised in Rome, loved his city, and was ready to share its wonders with travelers (which is precisely what I wished for since a previous tour of the city 23 years ago left me wanting to know more).

The Roman Catacombs, ancient burial places with elaborate tunnel systems that lie beneath the UNESCO-protected city, contain frescoes and sculptures as remarkable as their history.

Stunning outdoor gardens near the entrance to the tombs below.

After leaving the catacombs, we walked a two-mile hike along the well-preserved 2,000-year-old cobblestones of Rome's ancient Appian Way, which was initially constructed in the fourth century BC 

   and was the widest and longest road of its time. 

Views of The Imperial Residence of Massenzio (below)

After hiking, we went to an outdoor terrace for lunch. I went out on a limb and chose a pasta dish with sausage (an easy decision) and chicory (a new adventure). It was delicious and paired well with a large Perone beer. (Jack was batting a thousand so far when it came to choosing restaurants.)

Views of Trevi Fountain.

The Spanish Steps.

                                                   

6/6/2024 Transfer to Rome's Trastevere District

We explored the Trastevere District with Lucca, a wonderful, knowledgeable, entertaining, and energetic local guide. 

Michelangelo lived in Casa Buonarroti, the residence of the Buonarroti family, for many years. It is currently a museum with a rich collection of archives, libraries, works, models, and sketches 

established in memory of the great artist.

St. Peter's Basilica.

Fontana dell'Acqua Paola

Tempietto

Victor Emmanuel II Monument

Red roses and bougainvillea 

near a Trastevere gelateria.

"Homeless Jesus" sculpture by Timothy Schmalz.

Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in Montesanto 

twin churches in the Piazza del Popolo.

The Spanish Steps.

Violin Player in Rome.

Romy and Barb, dancing the night away 

at our farewell dinner at SUD Vino and Cucina.