5/24/2024                                                    Cruising The Po River with Captain Martina

Thankfully, birdpoop-free.

Our visit to the salumificio on Giarola Isand, 

which produces traditional culatello Parma ham.

Our new participant, strolling the grounds, was a 

magnificent, beautifully stunning male peacock, 

who later hissed at us before revealing a fantastic plumage, 

front and back.

Deep in the mansion's basement is a secret room down twisting, rickety, rotting steps.

"Silencio," says our trusty leader. At the same time, she slowly opens the creaking metal door before telling us about the overwhelming odor of mildew, which you deeply inhale too late before she can complete the entire warning. 

Row after row of aging culatello, Parma hams have taken over the space—some with multi-colored tags belonging to the upper class, who are the only people with enough income to cover the rental space charges for this exquisite meat. 

I am salivating...despite the smell.

Transfer to Lucca via the Appenine Mountains for the Main Trip...